Friday, January 28, 2022

Fast Play WWII 3x3 Based on the Portable Wargame

For the past few days, 3x3 Portable Wargame variants have become bit of a hot topic. I am pretty taken with the idea of a 15 minute wargame that I can set up on a corner of the kitchen table during my lunch breaks or in the evening after my son goes to bed. Very often, on weekdays/nights I have the itch to get the toys out, but I don't have time or inclination to setup a longer playing game.

While I think with a different set of rules a 3x3 grid would be good for a game with squad bases (something like a toy soldiered Advance Squad Leader Starter Kit, which I've been messing with), I think with using The Portable Wargame  as the base, and this limited board, it helps to think of these as company or higher level units so that the range limitations make more sense. 

In my case I see them as companies. My Eastern Front collection has been built up guided by the 1943 TO&E for both sides. And so, that's what I'm using to determine which units make up a battalion and therefore which kinds of companies to represent below.

Each grid space is then about 500m - 600m across. Close combat is then maybe just a bit longer than effective small arms range.

I'm using Bob Cordery's Colonial Fast Play 3x3 rules with some modifications/clarifications. You'll need both The Portable Wargame and his post in order to make sense of these.

Turn Sequence:

  1. Mortars, Panzergrenadier support companies or heavy companies, ATG may fire if not in close combat. Tanks may fire if not in close combat.
  2. Movement - reserves may move onto the table as well
  3. Panzergrenadier support companies that have not fired and are not in close combat,  or heavy companies/ATG  that have not fired or moved and are not in close combat, and Tanks that haven't  fired and are not in close combat may fire.
  4. Close Combat 

Set Up: 

I think the existing terrain systems as posited by Mark Cordone and Bob Cordery work fine for ancient or sparse areas, but I feel like a little more terrain (two to three pieces) makes more sense. After all, if we think of the 3x3 area as a section of  larger table where the battle has been joined, at least on my tables, there is more than one piece of terrain in the area. So, I'm just doing what I think looks good.

I allow up to 3 units in reserve, but require a 5 or 6 for them to enter the table. If a unit is forced back into the reserves, then they must roll again to reenter.


Unit Types:

Infantry : Move 1, Shoot 1 (Aka close combat)

Mortars: Move 1, Shoot 2, cannot initiate close combat, ie move adjacent to an enemy unless accompanying an Infantry unit, and then only as support. Fights normally in Close Combat if attacked. These are INDIRECT FIRE and can fire at targets in LOS or at a target in range that a friendly unit can trace LOS to. Cannot move and shoot in the same turn. (I am thinking maybe these should add +2 in support as well as these are the big guys, not the 50mm  ones organic to the infantry company)

MG: Move 1, Shoot 1, Fights normally in Close Combat if attacked. Adds +2 to attacker's die roll when acting in support in close combat.

MG/Mortar: Move 1, Shoot 2. The German Panzergrenadier battalion has a combined support company in 1943 on paper consisting of two MG platoons and one Mortar platoon. . Adds +2 to attacker's die roll when acting in support in close combat. Cannot shoot as mortar and then move later in the same turn

ATR: Move 1, Shoot, 1.  Tanks are treated normally (i.e. not  as in cover) Technically this is a platoon for the Soviets, 1 per battalion in 1943. I think you could make the case that they start with 1 Strength Point and not 2.

Panzergrenadier Heavy Company:   Move 1, Shoot 4.  Combined IG/ATG/Pioneer: Cannot move and shoot in the same turn, cannot initiate close combat, ie move adjacent to an enemy unless accompanying an Infantry unit. These are being used in a DIRECT FIRE role and cannot fire over intervening units or obstacles. 

ATG: Move 1, Shoot 2. Again, for Soviets, the ATG unit is a platoon , so 1 strength point is not beyond question. Cannot move and shoot in the same turn, cannot initiate close combat, ie move adjacent to an enemy unless accompanying an Infantry unit.

Tanks: I hesitate to include them but you never know. Move 2, Shoot 2. Only Infantry, ATG, Panzergrenadier heavy companies, and ATR units may destroy tanks. Always count tanks as in-cover when attacked by Infantry.


Close Combat Clarifications

5+ hits, 4 or less has no effect. It's written differently on Bob Cordery's post linked above.

All units can support each other (combined arms and all that)

If more than one adjacent square has an enemy, attacker chooses which target square is involved in the current combat and must turn to face that square (yes this puts the other enemy on their flank most likely)

After a flank attack, the defender may immediately turn and face the enemy.

If the attacker forces the enemy back or the enemy is destroyed and the space is empty, the attacking unit, but NOT support, may advance to take the emptied space.


A unit that is in support of a friendly unit during close combat does not take damage as a result of combat but must fall back with the friendly unit if the former is forced to do so. If the friendly unit is destroyed, the support unit remains in place and combat may continue into the next player turn.

Units may fall back 1 move away from close combat at no penalty. This must be back towards a friendly baseline or into reserve.

Game Length:

I think the max length should be 6 turns (double the number of turns it takes to move across the table). However, I have been having fun with 3 turns + roll 1d6. 1= game over, 2-5 = 1 more turn,  6= 2 more turns



I have found the games I've played like this rather enjoyable. There is precious little opportunity for maneuver but there are still options and decisions to make. 

In my case the setup takes 18" square and then some for the reserve, but those with smaller figures can use smaller sized grids of course.

It's easy to imagine bringing a handful of units, the grid and a bit of terrain on a vacation (remember those?) to play on a hotel room table.

13 comments:

  1. I was thinking along the same lines for terrain density. I've been experimenting with two pieces, one on each side for Europe after 1500. I think your system works great for 20th century.

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    1. Because i play solo 99% of the time, I have a lot of liberty with such things. I think however, allowing the attacker a roll to place terrain on their baseline would be welcome in a two player game. I don't know why i went with the middle row for that one woods. I guess maybe I thought the defender might want to advance and capture it to put pressure on the attacker?

      Delete
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  2. I saw your FB post about your game, but I’m glad that I’ve been able to see your whole battle report and rules.

    I look forward to following your developments of the 3 x 3 PW concept.

    All the best,

    Bob

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you for your comment, Bob. There's some terrific potential here for those of us who are time and space poor.

      Cheers!
      - John

      Delete
  3. Most interesting, l real must have a go myself…

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    Replies
    1. An interesting side effect is that now my 6x6 setup seems spacious, and my 8x8 seems positively gigantic!

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  4. Smaller and faster always sounds good to me John, and you have made it work! It's great to have an alternative, and you have created an excellent one! Well done!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you, Brad! I can take very little credit here - the ideas belong to Mark Cordone and Bob Cordery - I just hammered it into a WW2 shaped package. I've left quite a lot out - air strikes and the possibility of off table artillery for example, but these can be taken or modified from the core rules. If I change anything, I might want a larger grid space due to the doubling up of units - I'm thinking 8" squares or hexes even - which is still quite reasonably sized to fit on a portion of my 3'x5' kitchen table.

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  5. I dunno, it doesn't appear to be much faster than the PW and OHW that are already out there. I can usually plays those in 30 minutes as is, so I'm uncertain where the additional speed is found. Aside from that, sounds like an interesting game.

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    Replies
    1. I usually play The Portable Wargame in about an hour - depending on how many units (usually 6 + a leader per side, using the card draw method that limits how many units activate per turn) plus time to setup and tear down (I don't have space to leave a game out). The 3x3 version takes me 15-20 minutes tops - so I'm gaining some time, with admittedly reduced richness of play, enjoyable as it is.

      As for how speed is gained, if you play the way the idea was originally presented, when a side doesn't have a unit in all three columns they lose. I don't play that way, mind, but that's a way to speed things up.

      The units also start with reduced strength points (2 but I've seen people floating 3 instead) which helps increase the speed as well, but of course, you can do the same thing with regular PW, or use the sudden death option for real speed play. With sudden death option, I think you can easily play a 6 vs 6 PW game in under 20 minutes.

      For me the benefits are partly speed, but primarily space - it uses a small portion of my kitchen table. For those who game in smaller scales, that's not impressive but with 54s, that's a very small footprint. The grid makes it less jarring than it might otherwise be. As it uses little space, I can leave it setup next to me on the kitchen table while I work during the day and play a turn between tasks, knowing full well it'll be done when the kitchen table is needed for dinner after work.

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  7. Hi, just came here because I don't have FB and so I'm looking for resources on FP3x3PW around. I'm quite new to wargaming. I love the idea behind them, I mean I dig the intricate rules of hex&counters wargames. Anyway I don't have much time, I don't have much space and I would like to have a 'portable wargame'. So I fell in love with 3x3 and bought most of the PDFs from Bob. I find it difficult to put together the exact rules to make the 3x3 WWII work but then I undestood, by reading some posts, that what I read in the books is a toolkit and needs some tweaking to be fully functional. This was to say that these written reports are a good resource but I'm a fan of YT videos. Would some of you record a video of a game session? It would be great to see some expert play on a 3x3 grid. Thank you all. Cheers from Italy

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